Iceland Part 6 - West Fjords

The dinky sunlit village is Bíldudalur in West Fjords, Iceland

West fjords are hugely underrated (understand, a lot less travelled) part of Iceland, and to be perfectly honest (you wouldn’t expect anything less from me by now) I can fully understand why.  Before setting my 2WD onto the roads, the map I was given by car Rental Company had basically all roads marked in black. This meant high accident rate. At first in my mind, I was ridiculing the tourists (especially the English ones, not knowing which side to drive on). Then I moved onto the locals, driving under the influence of Brennivin. When finally the curiosity took over and I have decided to have a go. Looking at the map, this was becoming (in my mind at least) the deadliest web of roads in Europe. Seeking an adrenalin fuelled adventure, I have stocked up on water and food (mainly dried fish which was meant to carry me through the winter in case of being in an accident and the rescue services not finding me in time for the snowfall) and I set off.

The dramatic landscape and ever changing light in West Fjords

Having driven all the roads, I can see why that part of Iceland is so heavily underrated. Quite early on, if I could have, I would have turned around and gone back. But I guessed the lorry behind me had worries of his own without me adding to it. The small primary roads, which are basically off roads with massive pot holes, with 20+% incline, covered in gravel, makes you skid at just a thought of it. Add massive drops on your right/left and ....breath-taking scenery. This scenario has an accident waiting to happen written all over it. And it is the scenery that is deadly. But the scenery in West fjords (should you be fortunate to have a good weather) is something else. The weather has its ups and downs in Iceland (mostly downs, extra report on that later), but the changing light you get with changing weather is a definite up.  Unfortunately, they do not have (m)any  parking spots where you can pull over and admire. But that is least of your problems, when you are going up, driving in the middle of the road (as you are trying to avoid the massive drop) and out of nowhere, there is a car heading towards you, with a trailer, and you only have a split second to remember which side of the road you are meant to be on. Get it right and you're safe. Get it wrong... and you are making the roads even darker shade of black. I was holding on to the steering wheel so hard, I had blisters on the inside of my thumbs. But as I said, this part is a lot less travelled, so you will not be coming across head on awkward vehicle often.

Due to the adverse weather conditions in Iceland, lots of shrubs just grow few inches tall. In autumn they create this fabulous colourful tapestry

If you like unspoiled nature, wilderness, watching birds and dramatic light, the west fjords are for you. Also if you are going in the autumn, be ready for the autumn colour. It’s not only incredible in any light; it becomes symphony of autumn pallet in sunshine that just glows.  I have never ever seen anything like it.

Autumn view of West fjords. The foliage glows in sunshine and camera can not capture it. And Photoshop wasn't with me.

A must see place in West Fjords is Dynjandi (Fjalfoss) waterfall. If you are approaching  the waterfall from the south, you will come across a board by the road that reads something like “Dynjandi 500.” Ignore this and carry on driving. I spend an hour trying to track down the waterfall. I couldn’t get my head round, how something can be 500 (metres, yards, steps…) away, yet I couldn’t see it. Carry on driving and you will get to it. If you are driving to it from the north, you will see it no problems.

Dynjandi and landscape around it.

It’s very beautiful and it is biggie. The spray coupled with the wind will ensure you get wet. Take extra care when walking around it, as the rocks are extra slippery. Other than that, just enjoy the view. The walk to it has steps, and it is not too strenuous (if you don’t hike on regular basis). There are many other “waterfalls” along the walk, and they all have name, but it is the biggie you are interested in.

Dynjandi is huge. There is a couple standing in front of it for the scale. But please take care, as the area is very splippery

The only thing that I didn’t like in west fjords, was the road to Breidavik beach. It was on my “must see” places. The road to that place (612) is like driving in a quarry. Whole 40 kilometres of it. I wanted to cry. But as the day was coming to a close, I decided it was not a time to waste time and pressed on. When I finally arrived (what seemed like hours later) there was a car parked at the top of the road to it, blocking the entrance, saying the beach was closed. If there was a time to scream and cry wholeheartedly, this was it. The light was diminishing fast, and I knew I couldn’t stay in the car park, as it was too exposed to nature’s elements. I headed back to the beginning of the road. There is a big information board, and nowhere did it inform me, that the Breidavik beach was closed. Not only would it save my time, stress, nerves but also the planet. I arrived way past sunset, which I didn’t even see, as I was too busy dodging the massive pot holes in the road, and the sharp protruding rocks. But the heavens have made it up to me, as here I have witnessed my first Aurora Borealis sighting. So not all bad J

My first Aurora Borealis sighting in West Fjords

Punctures are also common, as the roads are far from surfaced as we, on a continent, know it. One guy was changing his tyre, and to be honest he couldn’t have chosen a worse spot. Punctures are a real threat on Icelandic secondary road, so might be good to brush up on how to change tyre.

But the good news is that Icelandic road surfacing agency is very busy, working hard at resurfacing the roads of west fjords, and I’m guessing in 10 years my stories of dodgy surface would be only that. Dodgy stories.