Iceland Part 3 - Mývatn

Myvatn at sunset - romantic (if you get the weather)

Every place in Iceland has a name that has been created by putting two-three words together to describe the place. Mývatn isn't different. It translates to “Lake of midges”. Many guides refer to them as midges, but midges they are not. Midges are exclusive to Scotland, and they are super tiny critters. The flies from Mývatn are much bigger (about 0.5cm) which makes them more irritable. The don't sting like the Scottish ones, they just try to get into your eyes, nose, ears, mouth and any other opening you may wish to expose to them. What is their objective once there, I do not know, and I didn't want to find out. I have never wished for the weather to turn to bad (ironic I know) so bad. And weather did change but somewhat reluctantly. This is a huge shame as I found Mývatn to be extremely beautiful corner of Iceland, especially covered in autumn colours that literally glow in the sunshine. Overcast skies, wind and rain just turn it into any volcanic lake district. These pesky flies are the only thing that let the area down. If you are coming here in summer/autumn pack a midge net. You'd be glad you did. Just like I wasn't happy that I didn't as I put the tourist complaints down to softies whims.

Lucky to have a nice sunset

If you are like me, and will do some research about Myvatn, you might come across some blogs/forums that will tell you thinks about the area. I have come across one Icelandic blog, and guy in it allowed two days for this area. Once here, he cut his plans short, as it wasn't at all great. I have spend here three days and could have spend another seven easily. So everything depends what excites you and what you like. Mývatn is basically a big lake, with some fancy hills around, with Namafjall Hverir (mud baths), Goðafoss, Húsavík, Detifos, Krafla, Thermal baths (but as I didn't have full swimming suit I didn't go there) and few other sights within a short driving distance. If you are lucky to have an off road car, there are even more possibilities. It's a volcanic area that will put a volcanic activity into perspective. There are craters everywhere. Krafla, which is the live and kicking volcano, is only couple of miles up the road. The stream that comes out of the volcano is hot, and even kilometre down the stream is still very pleasantly warm. Considering the ambient temperature was 7C, with the wind having a wind chill of around -1C, walking bare feet was not a wise decision, but this natural wonder just begged to be tested.

Geothermal station, warm stream and Krafla on the right

There is also a quirky shower and toilet mounted in the car park. Yes, that water is deliciously warm and no, I didn't lift the toilet seat :-)

                                           On the way to Krafla - lift the seat, if you dare

If you are a shopoholic, this area is not for you, as there is only one petrol station that has a small shop inside for just basic rations. And it is more expensive here as bottle of water is dangerously approaching £3 for 2 litres. The nearest souvenir shop is in Húsavík.     

Autumn colour in Myvatn

There are couple or geo thermal stations. One next to Krafla and one in Myvatn. I approached Myvatn from the east on the ring road. Basically driving the Ring road in anti clock wise direction. When I saw a huge plume of smoke rising high into the sky my heart skipped a beat. Or quite a few. Soo wanted to see a volcano erupting, and my dream was coming true in from of my eyes. But it wasn't to be. Not this time anyway. Looking back on it, the “smoke” was a bit too clean and white.

Geothermal station and autumn colour

I was camping (sleeping in the car) and temperature here does drop at night quite a bit. Especially if you are lucky to have a clear night (if you do, watch out for northern lights). First night I woke up, because I could feel someone touching me up. Turned out to be my own hands rubbing my shoulders due to the cold. I never knew body had this self preservation system. So, as much as I didn't want to sleep in the jacket (because I was worried I'd look too stupid, as this was not Himalayas) I had to put it on. Highly conscious of my image rather than protective of my well being, last night here I decided to skip the jacket. In my defence I will say, it felt rather warm and the thermometer in the car clearly stated 10C. Anyone who has been to Iceland will vouch for me, that this is a pleasantly warm evening. In the morning I woke up with hypothermia. This wasn't as bad as the one I had 3 days later, but scary never the less. So if you are camping (or sleeping in the car, like me) wrap up warm. Those warm evenings are deceiving.

Overall for me it was a great place and one where I shall return. Just a shame the camera can not capture the temperature, as I'm probably the only one who is looking and it, and feels the fingers and toes dropping in temperature rapidly.

Myvatn covered in  a mist. Nice to know I didn't suffer hypothermia for nothing and mother nature was doing her magic.