Iceland Part 2 - Jökulsárlón, Glacier lagoon

Glacier Lagoon in the morning  



This was my favourite place on Iceland, even though it looked a bit different to what I imagined it would look like (no palms and monkeys *winkey smiley* ). I spend long time pouring over images of the place, so once I turned up there, it will feel like being “inside TV.” I found the place smaller, than what I expected, as all tourist guides tell you, how it is huge it is and growing by 200 meters every year. It's about a kilometre long, and I'm sure it existed 6 years ago. When I arrived for the first time here, the sunset was in full swing. There weren't that many ice bergs and they certainly didn't appear to be huge like on pictures. This was mid September and I suppose weather was warm for Iceland, so they were melting faster. But I loved the place instantly. It's like no other on Earth (says the Wiltshire's very own Globetrotter) and it really is magical and stunning. Because there is constant movement in the lagoon, the place looks different every time. Many fly tourists that come to Iceland, only cover Golden circle and they miss out on this place. Jökulsárlón is about 4 hours drive from Reykjavik, but please bare in mind other attractions along the way. 4 hours can easily turn into 8 or more. Depends if you are a fly drive tourist or want to spend some time at each place. And depending on the weather of course.

If you are a bit into photography, you will have to work fast as the light here changes from moment to moment. I got so carried away, running around like a headless chicken, I have slipped on one of the stones and landed my left knee cup bang on the top of the sharp stones. If I wanted to stage it, I would not be able to. But there was not time for pain as time was ticking by, and the light was changing fast.

Sunset at Jokulsarlon



Breiðamerkurjökull glacier (where the icebergs are breaking off from) is just a "tongue" extension from the huuuge Vatnajökull glacier. Of course I knew this is the biggest ice cap in Europe (which I didn't think was too hard to get the top spot when countries like Spain, Portugal and Greece that contributed glaciers in their household freezers that need defrosting, are in the running) But I only realised its enormity, when I have been driving around for couple of days and was surprised to see so many glaciers. I looked into the map as I was sure Iceland didn't have that many glaciers in the area. So I pulled out my Rough guide map, that by now I was using for reference only, and seen that I have been circling Vatnajökull and what I have seen were it's many tongues. This ice cap is enormous, and you can appreciate its size only when here

At sunset

While here, you have to cross the road and go to the beach. The beach is volcanic jet black, with ice thrown onto it. Looks amazing. I admit I wasn't even aware of this part of Jökulsárlón. I was a bit surprised (rather a lot actually) why so many people were walking and standing on the beach, when such a beautiful sunset was happening at the lagoon. Next day, at sunrise, once finished photographing the lagoon, I had to go and see what was everyone so fascinated with. And see it I did. If I describe the lagoon as amazing, this place has other worldly quality to it. It's hypnotising. There are many places that take your breath away, and there are some that knock the wind out of you. This beach is the latter.

Volcanic beach with black sand across the road from Glacier lagoon

Once here, be aware of the sea washing the ice onto the beach when tide is coming in. I was so hypnotised, (too busy taking pictures and wanting to close in on the action) that I didn't see fast and strong tide moving one of the pieces towards my foot. Once the ice hit my left ankle (that bone that sticks out, ouch! Though I did use profanity) I knew about it. The pain was so sharp and sudden, I fell onto my back side, taking my camera with me. I was in (what I thought was) a safe distance from the sea, as the waves were predictable. Then out of nowhere this beast of a wave came at me. My left side was getting battered, and this was only day 3 of my holiday. Camera (luckily) was OK.

Another thing to be aware of that the current here is very strong. If I can give you one advice here, do not wear wellies, or sturdy shoes and be aware of your surrounding. Wellies and sturdy shoes will give you false sense of security and without you being aware you will edge closer and closer towards the sea. And bring spare set of clothes :-)

Volcanic beach at Jokulsarlon