Iceland Part 6 - West Fjords

The dinky sunlit village is Bíldudalur in West Fjords, Iceland

West fjords are hugely underrated (understand, a lot less travelled) part of Iceland, and to be perfectly honest (you wouldn’t expect anything less from me by now) I can fully understand why.  Before setting my 2WD onto the roads, the map I was given by car Rental Company had basically all roads marked in black. This meant high accident rate. At first in my mind, I was ridiculing the tourists (especially the English ones, not knowing which side to drive on). Then I moved onto the locals, driving under the influence of Brennivin. When finally the curiosity took over and I have decided to have a go. Looking at the map, this was becoming (in my mind at least) the deadliest web of roads in Europe. Seeking an adrenalin fuelled adventure, I have stocked up on water and food (mainly dried fish which was meant to carry me through the winter in case of being in an accident and the rescue services not finding me in time for the snowfall) and I set off.

The dramatic landscape and ever changing light in West Fjords

Having driven all the roads, I can see why that part of Iceland is so heavily underrated. Quite early on, if I could have, I would have turned around and gone back. But I guessed the lorry behind me had worries of his own without me adding to it. The small primary roads, which are basically off roads with massive pot holes, with 20+% incline, covered in gravel, makes you skid at just a thought of it. Add massive drops on your right/left and ....breath-taking scenery. This scenario has an accident waiting to happen written all over it. And it is the scenery that is deadly. But the scenery in West fjords (should you be fortunate to have a good weather) is something else. The weather has its ups and downs in Iceland (mostly downs, extra report on that later), but the changing light you get with changing weather is a definite up.  Unfortunately, they do not have (m)any  parking spots where you can pull over and admire. But that is least of your problems, when you are going up, driving in the middle of the road (as you are trying to avoid the massive drop) and out of nowhere, there is a car heading towards you, with a trailer, and you only have a split second to remember which side of the road you are meant to be on. Get it right and you're safe. Get it wrong... and you are making the roads even darker shade of black. I was holding on to the steering wheel so hard, I had blisters on the inside of my thumbs. But as I said, this part is a lot less travelled, so you will not be coming across head on awkward vehicle often.

Due to the adverse weather conditions in Iceland, lots of shrubs just grow few inches tall. In autumn they create this fabulous colourful tapestry

If you like unspoiled nature, wilderness, watching birds and dramatic light, the west fjords are for you. Also if you are going in the autumn, be ready for the autumn colour. It’s not only incredible in any light; it becomes symphony of autumn pallet in sunshine that just glows.  I have never ever seen anything like it.

Autumn view of West fjords. The foliage glows in sunshine and camera can not capture it. And Photoshop wasn't with me.

A must see place in West Fjords is Dynjandi (Fjalfoss) waterfall. If you are approaching  the waterfall from the south, you will come across a board by the road that reads something like “Dynjandi 500.” Ignore this and carry on driving. I spend an hour trying to track down the waterfall. I couldn’t get my head round, how something can be 500 (metres, yards, steps…) away, yet I couldn’t see it. Carry on driving and you will get to it. If you are driving to it from the north, you will see it no problems.

Dynjandi and landscape around it.

It’s very beautiful and it is biggie. The spray coupled with the wind will ensure you get wet. Take extra care when walking around it, as the rocks are extra slippery. Other than that, just enjoy the view. The walk to it has steps, and it is not too strenuous (if you don’t hike on regular basis). There are many other “waterfalls” along the walk, and they all have name, but it is the biggie you are interested in.

Dynjandi is huge. There is a couple standing in front of it for the scale. But please take care, as the area is very splippery

The only thing that I didn’t like in west fjords, was the road to Breidavik beach. It was on my “must see” places. The road to that place (612) is like driving in a quarry. Whole 40 kilometres of it. I wanted to cry. But as the day was coming to a close, I decided it was not a time to waste time and pressed on. When I finally arrived (what seemed like hours later) there was a car parked at the top of the road to it, blocking the entrance, saying the beach was closed. If there was a time to scream and cry wholeheartedly, this was it. The light was diminishing fast, and I knew I couldn’t stay in the car park, as it was too exposed to nature’s elements. I headed back to the beginning of the road. There is a big information board, and nowhere did it inform me, that the Breidavik beach was closed. Not only would it save my time, stress, nerves but also the planet. I arrived way past sunset, which I didn’t even see, as I was too busy dodging the massive pot holes in the road, and the sharp protruding rocks. But the heavens have made it up to me, as here I have witnessed my first Aurora Borealis sighting. So not all bad J

My first Aurora Borealis sighting in West Fjords

Punctures are also common, as the roads are far from surfaced as we, on a continent, know it. One guy was changing his tyre, and to be honest he couldn’t have chosen a worse spot. Punctures are a real threat on Icelandic secondary road, so might be good to brush up on how to change tyre.

But the good news is that Icelandic road surfacing agency is very busy, working hard at resurfacing the roads of west fjords, and I’m guessing in 10 years my stories of dodgy surface would be only that. Dodgy stories.

Iceland Part 3 - Mývatn

Myvatn at sunset - romantic (if you get the weather)

Every place in Iceland has a name that has been created by putting two-three words together to describe the place. Mývatn isn't different. It translates to “Lake of midges”. Many guides refer to them as midges, but midges they are not. Midges are exclusive to Scotland, and they are super tiny critters. The flies from Mývatn are much bigger (about 0.5cm) which makes them more irritable. The don't sting like the Scottish ones, they just try to get into your eyes, nose, ears, mouth and any other opening you may wish to expose to them. What is their objective once there, I do not know, and I didn't want to find out. I have never wished for the weather to turn to bad (ironic I know) so bad. And weather did change but somewhat reluctantly. This is a huge shame as I found Mývatn to be extremely beautiful corner of Iceland, especially covered in autumn colours that literally glow in the sunshine. Overcast skies, wind and rain just turn it into any volcanic lake district. These pesky flies are the only thing that let the area down. If you are coming here in summer/autumn pack a midge net. You'd be glad you did. Just like I wasn't happy that I didn't as I put the tourist complaints down to softies whims.

Lucky to have a nice sunset

If you are like me, and will do some research about Myvatn, you might come across some blogs/forums that will tell you thinks about the area. I have come across one Icelandic blog, and guy in it allowed two days for this area. Once here, he cut his plans short, as it wasn't at all great. I have spend here three days and could have spend another seven easily. So everything depends what excites you and what you like. Mývatn is basically a big lake, with some fancy hills around, with Namafjall Hverir (mud baths), Goðafoss, Húsavík, Detifos, Krafla, Thermal baths (but as I didn't have full swimming suit I didn't go there) and few other sights within a short driving distance. If you are lucky to have an off road car, there are even more possibilities. It's a volcanic area that will put a volcanic activity into perspective. There are craters everywhere. Krafla, which is the live and kicking volcano, is only couple of miles up the road. The stream that comes out of the volcano is hot, and even kilometre down the stream is still very pleasantly warm. Considering the ambient temperature was 7C, with the wind having a wind chill of around -1C, walking bare feet was not a wise decision, but this natural wonder just begged to be tested.

Geothermal station, warm stream and Krafla on the right

There is also a quirky shower and toilet mounted in the car park. Yes, that water is deliciously warm and no, I didn't lift the toilet seat :-)

                                           On the way to Krafla - lift the seat, if you dare

If you are a shopoholic, this area is not for you, as there is only one petrol station that has a small shop inside for just basic rations. And it is more expensive here as bottle of water is dangerously approaching £3 for 2 litres. The nearest souvenir shop is in Húsavík.     

Autumn colour in Myvatn

There are couple or geo thermal stations. One next to Krafla and one in Myvatn. I approached Myvatn from the east on the ring road. Basically driving the Ring road in anti clock wise direction. When I saw a huge plume of smoke rising high into the sky my heart skipped a beat. Or quite a few. Soo wanted to see a volcano erupting, and my dream was coming true in from of my eyes. But it wasn't to be. Not this time anyway. Looking back on it, the “smoke” was a bit too clean and white.

Geothermal station and autumn colour

I was camping (sleeping in the car) and temperature here does drop at night quite a bit. Especially if you are lucky to have a clear night (if you do, watch out for northern lights). First night I woke up, because I could feel someone touching me up. Turned out to be my own hands rubbing my shoulders due to the cold. I never knew body had this self preservation system. So, as much as I didn't want to sleep in the jacket (because I was worried I'd look too stupid, as this was not Himalayas) I had to put it on. Highly conscious of my image rather than protective of my well being, last night here I decided to skip the jacket. In my defence I will say, it felt rather warm and the thermometer in the car clearly stated 10C. Anyone who has been to Iceland will vouch for me, that this is a pleasantly warm evening. In the morning I woke up with hypothermia. This wasn't as bad as the one I had 3 days later, but scary never the less. So if you are camping (or sleeping in the car, like me) wrap up warm. Those warm evenings are deceiving.

Overall for me it was a great place and one where I shall return. Just a shame the camera can not capture the temperature, as I'm probably the only one who is looking and it, and feels the fingers and toes dropping in temperature rapidly.

Myvatn covered in  a mist. Nice to know I didn't suffer hypothermia for nothing and mother nature was doing her magic.