Iceland Part 14 - Final thought

Spook looking for a toilet in the Icelands' wilderness

So that was my 2 weeks in Iceland. I truly had the time of my life and the best two hours of my life for sure. If I could change anything, it would be having a smart phone, as my old mobile is not the best for looking up weather websites. And as I only found internet in Egilsstaðir, Akureyri, Reykjavik and Skaftafell national park (that were open) this was the biggest hurdle for me. I was as flexible as the weather, but when you don't know the forecast, it's tough to make decision. I will be returning during summer, and I can't wait to do the Interior and visit more of the wild, unspoiled and breath taking landscapes and sights. And do off road driving and crossing rivers. Woop woop!

Stokkur ready to go. All the sights in Iceland are free. You don't even have to pay for parking. Huge plus and huge difference if you live in the UK. Money you save, you will spend elsewhere. Guaranteed.

Any country can have a bad weather, but at least with Iceland you know you're going to get it (and with the UK but we are not covering the UK now). You can come prepared. And do not go reading sci-fi stories of great weather during whole stay in Iceland. You will only end up being disappointed. One thing that will not disappoint will be the sights. I have never seen such long stretches of wilderness and unspoiled nature. I have bought a t-shirt in Reykjavik that says: Iceland the best kept secret. I don't think Iceland is a secret at all. It's just that people get so obsessed about their weather and choose not to go and they are missing out on something much, much better.

And we have a take off! This is Stokkur. The Geysir is dead and has been dead for quite some time. Every warm water that squirts from the ground at regular intervals and looks like this is called geyser. You could say his legacy lives on.  If you're comming here and you are lucky for it to go off, you can see it from way away. Some blasts are smaller than others.

While waiting for Stokkur, you can admire these pools that are full of minerals hence the colour.

And the final thought is:
Be prepared for the worst, hope for better, but most importantly have a great time! Iceland has all the ingredients you need for a trip of a life time.

Iceland Part 9 - Driving

Ring road. Roads in Iceland are mostly raised.

Iceland is amazing country and the best way to see it (in my modest opinion) is by car. Car not only gets you around (and your luggage and you entourage) in comfort, but offers much needed shelter when the weather turns.

Here I would like to tell you about the infrastructure of Iceland. No amount of research will prepare you for what to expect. Even after reading my shocking report, I expect you still will be surprised what you will find. Iceland has five types of roads: Ring road, primary roads, secondary roads, off roads and terrain. You are not advised to drive in terrain, as this is heavily penalised and you can end up with a prison sentence. I’m not sure what the exact penalty charge is, but at first it may sound like a lot, but their inflation means that 1000 monopoly money (or whatever the currency is) equals to £6 in real money.

Ring road in North-east. Beautiful surface. Pleasure to drive.

Ring road is the big boy of the roads, and goes round the whole island. All the main attractions are on this route. 95% is nice tarmac like you see on the picture. A small part in the east is gravel road with massive potholes covering the whole width of the road. This was last year though, so it could be that today the whole of Rind road is nice surface.

Primary road. Some parts are surfaced, some unsurfaced. This is unsurfaced.

Primary roads - these are some parts tarmac, some parts gravel. Tarmac I do not have to explain, but will spend some time on what gravel road is. Yes it has gravel on it, but this is least of your problems. It’s quite easy to skid on it, but this is fun. The less fun bit are massive potholes that sometimes go on forever and cover the whole width of the road. To dodge them, is great fun, but only until you have an accident (like I did) and you end up reading the small print on your rental agreement and seeing what you are insured for. Or what you are NOT insured for. Once you realise, that the vehicle you are renting in NOT a dodgem, the fun is over. Your car is not likely to be covered for water damage (this means crossing rivers, not rain), wind damage (if the door gets ripped from its hinges by gale force) or gravel damage (don’t ask). If you get a puncture you have to fix it yourself, then drive to nearest service and get it changed at your expense (good luck in finding service). So basically, you are not covered for anything that is constant threat and danger to you. However you are covered for theft of the car. Island in the middle of nowhere. Like any car is going to end up in Russia by chance.

Secondary road. The better kind. When you are on the drastic kind, you are glad when you get into the rhytm and you carry on driving. Hence no picture.

Secondary roads- very similar to primary, roads except they do not have tarmac. They also have massive stones and rocks protruding from them. To be honest, I do not think I would take off road car on them, let alone 2WD I had, but the map given to me by the rental guys said it was ok to drive them. I forgot to ask the rental guys if the cars are especially adapted for Iceland roads, but we were too busy examining the damage on my car and me shaking and panicking profusely at the possible cost.

Road to Detifoss. The one for the 2WD. I sensed the road for 4WD was better, but wasn't allowed on it.

Off roads: you can only drive here in 4WD vehicles. Now I’m not trying you put you up to no good here, but few times I have seen off roads being in much better and drivable conditions than secondary roads. Unfortunately, if you are caught driving 2WD on these roads same rules as driving in terrain applies.

Terrain: everything around the roads I have just explained. This is not only to prevent erosion, but also that Icelandic flora grows at much slower rate than it does anywhere else. 1 year growth in the UK equals to 10 year growth in Iceland. So please bare this in mind and be respectful to their nature.

Now if you will be driving and want to only see the things around Ring road, 2WD is fine. If you will be venturing beyond its boundaries and can afford it, get the 4WD. You will be glad you did. I have seen better farm tracks in England than I have driven primary and secondary roads in Iceland.

Speed limits: Tarmac 90kmh/56mph, Gravel road 80kmh/50mph (though this is somewhat tricky to go as fast as that. It is ok to go much slower. You are not a chicken. I did it too, so that makes it cool), Towns 50kmh/31mph, Build up area 30kmh/19mph. I would like to stress here, that these speed limits are real, and not as guidance only, like it is in UK.

West Fjords - mostly secondary roads, but beware of the views. And make sure you put the hand breake on properly.

They have a lot of self-service pumps to refuel. Some are in Icelandic only. If you seek a bit of adrenalin, use these. Later wonder if you are getting charged even if you got no fuel out. Then  phone your bank on your UK mobile number, and pay to listen to those annoying songs while you wait for available representative. And then worry about your phone bill that you are definatelly getting charged for. If life is too easy and going well, there are so many way to spice it up, I tell you.

 Also you have to say to the pump how much money you want to spend before it lets you use the pump. My first refueling was quite a conundrum. I thought I was being a big spender putting 2800kr worth of petrol and wondering what will I do if that is like "too much money". Only when starting the car and seeing the gauge barely moved I had to have another go. However they also have pumps where an attendant will come out and fill the car for you. This cost extra (about 5kr a litre). These pumps are usually at the front, which is quite bad. In busy times if people do not want the attendant, they leave the front pump free, while other people are queuing and waiting to refuel at the back. If you are not too posh, or want to save money, watch out for the “self-service” signs.

Parking outside of Reykjavik at various places is free (hard to imagine if you live in the UK). Parking places along the Ring road (or elsewhere for that matter) are scares. Their roads are mostly raised, so “pulling over” means stopping in the middle of the road. Outside of the Golden circle, the traffic is not busy, so this is not so much of a problem.

They also have fair few bridges that are only big enough for one car to pass at a time. Here the rule is: the car that arrives first has a right of way. Do not race. You will find that the other car slows down.

Watch out for their sheep. I must say the Icelandic sheep has a better road sense than some of the people I know. The dark ones are tricky though, as they usually blend with the dark surroundings. Or tarmac even. In my whole stay, I have only come across one sheep that wouldn’t budge. She stood right in the middle of the road staring at me, and no amount of flashing and beeping the horn would make her move. After couple of minutes the scenario started to look comical, and I have decided to go and get my camera (that was in the booth of the car – mistake). As soon as I got out of a car and the sheep looked at me, it run away and so did the rest of the herd. So they might be the wisest, but are not the hardest :-)

Iceland Part 2 - Jökulsárlón, Glacier lagoon

Glacier Lagoon in the morning  



This was my favourite place on Iceland, even though it looked a bit different to what I imagined it would look like (no palms and monkeys *winkey smiley* ). I spend long time pouring over images of the place, so once I turned up there, it will feel like being “inside TV.” I found the place smaller, than what I expected, as all tourist guides tell you, how it is huge it is and growing by 200 meters every year. It's about a kilometre long, and I'm sure it existed 6 years ago. When I arrived for the first time here, the sunset was in full swing. There weren't that many ice bergs and they certainly didn't appear to be huge like on pictures. This was mid September and I suppose weather was warm for Iceland, so they were melting faster. But I loved the place instantly. It's like no other on Earth (says the Wiltshire's very own Globetrotter) and it really is magical and stunning. Because there is constant movement in the lagoon, the place looks different every time. Many fly tourists that come to Iceland, only cover Golden circle and they miss out on this place. Jökulsárlón is about 4 hours drive from Reykjavik, but please bare in mind other attractions along the way. 4 hours can easily turn into 8 or more. Depends if you are a fly drive tourist or want to spend some time at each place. And depending on the weather of course.

If you are a bit into photography, you will have to work fast as the light here changes from moment to moment. I got so carried away, running around like a headless chicken, I have slipped on one of the stones and landed my left knee cup bang on the top of the sharp stones. If I wanted to stage it, I would not be able to. But there was not time for pain as time was ticking by, and the light was changing fast.

Sunset at Jokulsarlon



Breiðamerkurjökull glacier (where the icebergs are breaking off from) is just a "tongue" extension from the huuuge Vatnajökull glacier. Of course I knew this is the biggest ice cap in Europe (which I didn't think was too hard to get the top spot when countries like Spain, Portugal and Greece that contributed glaciers in their household freezers that need defrosting, are in the running) But I only realised its enormity, when I have been driving around for couple of days and was surprised to see so many glaciers. I looked into the map as I was sure Iceland didn't have that many glaciers in the area. So I pulled out my Rough guide map, that by now I was using for reference only, and seen that I have been circling Vatnajökull and what I have seen were it's many tongues. This ice cap is enormous, and you can appreciate its size only when here

At sunset

While here, you have to cross the road and go to the beach. The beach is volcanic jet black, with ice thrown onto it. Looks amazing. I admit I wasn't even aware of this part of Jökulsárlón. I was a bit surprised (rather a lot actually) why so many people were walking and standing on the beach, when such a beautiful sunset was happening at the lagoon. Next day, at sunrise, once finished photographing the lagoon, I had to go and see what was everyone so fascinated with. And see it I did. If I describe the lagoon as amazing, this place has other worldly quality to it. It's hypnotising. There are many places that take your breath away, and there are some that knock the wind out of you. This beach is the latter.

Volcanic beach with black sand across the road from Glacier lagoon

Once here, be aware of the sea washing the ice onto the beach when tide is coming in. I was so hypnotised, (too busy taking pictures and wanting to close in on the action) that I didn't see fast and strong tide moving one of the pieces towards my foot. Once the ice hit my left ankle (that bone that sticks out, ouch! Though I did use profanity) I knew about it. The pain was so sharp and sudden, I fell onto my back side, taking my camera with me. I was in (what I thought was) a safe distance from the sea, as the waves were predictable. Then out of nowhere this beast of a wave came at me. My left side was getting battered, and this was only day 3 of my holiday. Camera (luckily) was OK.

Another thing to be aware of that the current here is very strong. If I can give you one advice here, do not wear wellies, or sturdy shoes and be aware of your surrounding. Wellies and sturdy shoes will give you false sense of security and without you being aware you will edge closer and closer towards the sea. And bring spare set of clothes :-)

Volcanic beach at Jokulsarlon

Iceland Part 1



Blue Lagoon waste

After landing in Keflavik airport and once I have finished pleasant, but somewhat lengthy tour of Njarðvík (understand once I found my way out of the town) I have headed towards Blue Lagoon. It's one of the must see places on the island and amongst the iconic places of the island. Once I got there I have discovered that I have managed to pack my lower part of swimming costume, but for some reason I didn't pack the top. It remains a mystery to this day, what my grand plan was taking only bottoms, as going topless certainly was not an option. Not for me and not for the people having relaxing bath. The only reason I can think of why I didn't pack the top, it's because I start packing for my holiday no sooner than 36 hours before the departure.

Even in my naive gay holiday state of mind, going around lagoon fully dressed taking pictures of semi naked people seemed a little off, so I had to find alternative spot to take picture of this iconic place (I'm not even sure if it is allowed, but they do have a webcam) And alternative place to dip my toes in. You can't see it, but it was a top spot for sunset. If it wasn't for the pesky clouds. I had a plan B to go back and re-shoot with better weather, but this was the best weather during my stay. As pretty as it looks, it has to be told, the place reeks. Maybe you already knew it, maybe it comes as a total shock to you, like it did to me. Just to get acclimatised I would recommend to let some eggs age naturally and then boil them for about half an hour crack open and inhale. Trust me, you will be glad you did. You will not be suffering sore nose, headaches, upset stomach and you will look much harder (and prettier) compared to other tourist who keep pulling faces as soon as they stop the car.

Ring road, East Iceland

View of Vík from the church. Very near by is Katla live volcano.

I also take this opportunity to give you another tourist tip: do not waste your money on renting SAT-NAV. Once you work out the road system (eeeeeaaaseee), getting around is doddle. I'm not blowing my trumpet here, but I have navigation skills of a goldfish (just as well the Ring road is circle) and all I had was Rough Guide road map and no major problem at all. I can not recommend the map though, as I have realised that the "Rough" bit is short for "roughly". Once on the island you can buy one of their maps that are really good (I was told at the end of holidays). And you have a very nice souvenir to keep. Personally I love looking at the maps as this reminds me of the places I visited.

The sign posting is really good in Iceland, though do not expect the English system and be told every couple of miles how many miles left to your destination. Usually, you have a sign at the beginning of a road (junction) and when you arrive. When in a new place it can be a little unnerving as every mile travelled feels like 5 miles. But providing you stayed on the same road and didn't turn off, you are on the right track. Sometimes though, you do not have a sign to let you know you arrived at a certain place and you will miss it. Like I did. I'd tell you what place it was, but it didn't have a sign:-) This only happens with places like very ickle, small "towns", that consist of 5 houses and no church. I always thought, that every town had a church. Plus Iceland boasts a ratio one church per 1000 inhabitants. What do people in these places do during the time of worship? Read my blog? ;-)